So far the 2009 Australian Vintage can be characterised as one of extreme weather conditions, a damp coolish start followed by blistering heat. These conditions have contributed to low yields, extreme droughts and some of the most devastating bush fires Australia has ever seen.
The grape yields are 11% down on the 2008 vintage and 20% down on the long-run average. In most places the cooler wet weather around November hampered flowering and so decreased the amount of grapes per bunch. Compounding this, the lower than average temperature in December went on to reduce the rate of berry development, thus lowering the bunch weight and slowing down the ripening process. Then came the heat wave. In the major wine growing regions it was on average 38°C for two weeks running, spiking to 45°C in the major grape growing regions of South Australia. These record hot temperatures caused a slowdown in ripening, some sunburn and grape shrivelling, which in the worse cases has lead to whole vineyards losing their crop as the vine switches into survival mode and shuts down. This vintage will definitely be one for reds rather than whites. The white grape varieties having suffered the worst of the heat stroke right around harvest time giving growers less chance to compensate for the adverse effects. Many of the vineyards containing white grapes where left unharvested.
Not many areas suffered more than the state of Victoria, where the hot dry weather conditions were disastrous, especially for the Yarra Valley, which has seen some 5% of its vineyard area destroyed by fire. It is likely that the smoke taint from the fire will further reduce the amount of grapes reaching the crusher this year.
So what does this mean for us in the UK? Well, the reduced yields may offer some relief as it will likely be accompanied by an increase in quality. Declining demand and large surplus stocks from previous vintages mean producers will tend to be more selective in the grapes they pick with poor quality grapes being rejected. Any grapes adversely affected by this year’s conditions are likely to be dropped or left on the vine resulting in only the highest quality vineyards being used for wine production. Good news for the red wines, a slower more even ripening period with fewer berries per bunch are giving good flavor concentrations which balanced with higher natural acidity and lower alcohol levels are producing wines which are more elegant and structured. This year the white wines will be very site dependent in terms of their quality. The Riverland, which produces much of Australia’s cheaper wines, had a great vintage, the Hunter Valley suffered from the adverse weather and in South Australia some sites survived the drought and heat whilst others suffered. Australia will be producing some awesome wines this year, we just have to get accustomed to the idea that to really get to taste the potential of what this country can produce we will need to pay a little more. We've got lulled into this false economy of supermarket mark-downs and now consider that paying over £10 for an Aussie shiraz an out-rage. £10 is the starting point for wines that reflect some quality, get over any preconceptions of the wines being overblown gang-busting fruit-bombs, Australia's a large country and the areas they grow grapes are climatically diverse.
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