As the grey sky beams down on London with the looming threat of drizzle I think it suitable to write about a bottle of wine born on the hot and rocky slopes of the Proirat region of Nothern Spain. Just two hours drive from Barcelona this region was once neglected and never regarded particularly highly until a group of dynamic young winemakers decided to revive the old vines as well as planting newer, more contemporary varieties like Cabernet and Syrah. The terraces, carved into the slopes are like enormous staircases, creating a pretty picture but back-breaking work for those who have to look after the vineyards. Thankfully, these difficult conditions mean that no machine harvesting takes place, instead all the viticulture is done by hand. The summer heat, the steep dry terraces, the altitude at which these grapes are grown and the unique slate-and-quartzite soil gives the wines from this region of Spain a quality unlike any other.
So, onto the wine, 2005 MAS MALLOLA Bodegas Marco Abella this is Lea & Sandeman's find, a lovely well priced red wine made from a blend of Garnacha (45%) and Cariñena (40%) together with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. I found that the fine grained tannins flowed across the palette, persisting for about 10 seconds from swallowing. They are a shade away from being too intense, remaining delicate whilst still resolute. Now, these tannins,an essential component of red wine, form the backbone of what we appreciate red wine for. But after a glass or so I found that the tannins here were a touch too dry, with the fruit component of the wine not quite hanging on as long in the mouth, leaving the palette lonesomely dry. The fruit appears at the beginning as you let the wine flow down onto your tongue, flashy smartly placed fruit with the acidity that keeps the sour berry and savoury taste alive. A touch of spice and minerality go on to form the background of the portrait. This wine is well worth the money, however if you find a long lost tenner in your pocket, take a step up to this wines older sister 2005 CLOS ABELLA Bodegas Marco Abella , a decidedly more elegant and sexy wine with a hidden power that after finishing the bottle, will make you put down your swirled glass, stand up straight and realise what an immature wine drinker you really are.
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